CEO and Perfumer of Cécile Zarokian Parfumeur, Cécile Zarokian(!), joined me in the Perfume Room earlier this week to share how she’s redefined the rules of the game, turned her greatest challenges into strengths, and found the CZP edge—her proverbial captive if you will—that helps her compete with (and win against) the industry’s biggest players. Today, she’s in The Other Room to share even more insights and reflections on her life, career, and creations.
The Other Room is the official Perfume Room companion post-show. Every Tuesday, hear from guests on their episode of Perfume Room podcast, and later that week, enjoy bonus content from those same guests, exclusively on Substack!
Paris-based perfumer and CEO Cécile Zarokian founded her fragrance creative studio in 2011. Her creations — including global bestsellers for Amouage, Granado, and Nishane — are celebrated for their artistic depth and international acclaim. Though rooted in niche perfumery, her creative vision now resonates far beyond; couture houses, international groups, and designer brands turn to her for her singular creativity. More than a perfumer, Cécile Zarokian has carved a new path in the world of perfumery.
Chatting with Cécile was a true honor and highlight for me. I’ve long been a fan of her work. Speaking as a perfume lover, I will say this: it’s a rare kind of magic when you can smell a fragrance and feel the hand of a specific perfumer behind it—for something to smell so technically perfect, but still so human… so them. Cécile possesses that gift.
And while her creations know no bounds, to me, she is the true master of warm spice. No one does it better. Her creations in this genre (I’m talking amber, spices, Oud, resins, vanilla, tobacco, etc.) are the kinds that recall fireplaces burning in big stone castles, lights dimmed for mood, and whisky poured into fine crystal. They’re bold and atmospheric — overdosed, but never cluttered or gratuitous.
Her episode is Perfume Room canon. A true must-listen.
And, of course, once you’re done, I hope you enjoy our post-show catch-up below :)
xx Emma
How do you think teen fragrance culture has evolved since you were a teen? Why?
When I was younger, even before my teen years, there was really just one iconic reference: Tartine et Chocolat. Ptisenbon by Givenchy was the classic — a soft, powdery eau de toilette that everyone wore as a first scent.
Then came the teenage years, and with them, the golden age of Cacharel: we had Anaïs Anaïs for the romantics, Boheme, and Amor Amor or Démon for the bold.
The offer was limited, which made fragrance feel more personal, almost instinctive, easier. You chose yourself the scent you felt truly attracted to. You had one or two bottles — often gifted — and you wore them without overthinking. It wasn’t about performance, collecting, or keeping up. It was quiet. Intimate.
Today, it’s a completely different landscape. Teens are growing up in a world where fragrance is everywhere — part of pop culture, social media, even identity-building. They explore, they layer, they follow perfumers, and they know what’s trending on TikTok before it hits the shelves. The number of options is overwhelming, and their first encounter with perfume often comes through hype rather than emotion.
But that doesn’t mean it’s superficial. In fact, it’s quite the opposite: fragrance has become a form of self-expression. Some choices are trend-driven — sure — but many are deeply personal. Teens today are more curious, more experimental, and more informed than we ever were. And while the relationship with scent may begin in the public eye, it often evolves into something beautifully intimate again — just in a very different way.
You mentioned that unlike most oil houses, you are able to use real ambergris in your creations. Can you tell us about ambergris and why that’s so special?
Ambergris is one of the rarest and fascinating materials in perfumery. It’s a natural substance produced by sperm whales, but importantly, it’s completely harmless to the animal. Ambergris only becomes usable after it’s been naturally expelled by the whale, then aged and oxidized over time, usually after floating in the ocean for years. Only then can it be found on the shores, collected, and used. That’s what makes it so valuable — the amount that can be found is completely random and unpredictable. You never know when, where, or how much will appear.
Once collected, it’s tinctured: soaked in alcohol for several months to slowly reveal its scent. The result? A beautifully complex aroma with notes of amber, salt, sea breeze, honey, and a soft animalic touch. But what makes ambergris even more special is what it does beyond the smell — it acts as a natural fixative. It gives depth to the perfume, makes it more long lasting and powerful. And its incredible diffusion lingers in the air. It doesn’t shout — it transforms. It gives warmth, texture, and that “something” you can’t quite put into words, but you feel it.
I only use ambergris in very special projects because of its scarcity and the emotion it brings to a fragrance. And I loved seeing that Francis Kurkdjian recently announced he’s using it in one of his upcoming creations. That says a lot — it’s a timeless material, and it’s making its quiet return in modern perfumery.
Are there any materials unique to the CZP organ or ones with limited access?
Absolutely. One of the things I value most at our Fragrance Creative Studio (Cécile Zarokian Parfumeur) is that I’m the perfumer but also the one making the call. I source what I love because I’m the decision maker. This freedom in sourcing allows us to choose only the most valuable, rare, and high-quality materials.
We work directly with trusted producers — often family-run, sometimes over several generations — which gives us access to exceptional ingredients and the possibility to develop exclusive qualities no one else can offer. Take Oud, for example. It's one of the most precious and complex raw materials we use. We source it in very limited quantities and in extraordinary grades — aged, rich, and full of nuance. For one specific client, we were able to access and develop a completely unique Oud quality, created exclusively for them. That kind of collaboration is only possible when you have close, long-term and trustworthy relationships with producers and a deep understanding of the material. That said, it’s not just Oud — we also work with other highly distinctive ingredients like rose centifolia, and each one becomes part of our signature olfactive language. We stay agile and responsive to the market, but every material we use is carefully chosen — not just for its beauty, but also for its storytelling power. And because I lead every decision, there’s no dilution in the process. It’s precise, intentional, and deeply personal.
Is there any one material you have a particularly large amount of iterations of? (i.e., 40 different musks)
I would say... Oud again... because Oud is the material I’ve explored most extensively over the years. We work with multiple iterations, each offering a unique olfactive profile depending on age, origin, and extraction. From brighter, woody facets to darker, more animalic depths, these variations allow for a wide creative range. The richness and versatility of Oud are what makes it such a central and evolving part of our palette.
We talked a bit about some of your blockbusters (Ani, Epic 56, Bossa, Outlands, etc.) Let's spotlight some of the lesser known gems. Can you share a few fragrances that maybe haven't had the same limelight or public response that should?
Absolutely! Here are three of my personal favorites that may not be as well known, but truly deserve more attention:
Royal Tobacco – Amouage: A richly layered exploration of tobacco and incense, woven with licorice root, resins, frankincense, birch tar. It's bold yet refined — a smoky, warm, textured, a real take on tobacco celebrating contrasts and cultural storytelling.
Remember Me – Jovoy: Inspired by a trip to Qatar and the beloved Karak (kind of local chai latte), this neo-gourmand unisex scent blends spicy milk, cardamom, ginger, and frangipani. It’s cozy and evocative, a perfect balance of warmth and floral elegance.
Balmain Hair Couture Collection: Crafted to mark the 50th anniversary of Balmain Hair, this trio brings fashion-forward structure to hair fragrance, each one elegant, textured, and with a distinct couture signature.
You were able to break into Brazil. Are there any other markets that interest you?
Yes — Brazil was such a rewarding experience.
I also keep being fascinated by the Middle East — particularly Saudi Arabia and the UAE — where fragrance is part of culture, tradition, and ritual. The appreciation for intense, high-quality materials, the art of layering, and the emotional depth attached to scent make it a region where creativity can really flourish.
Another market that fascinates me is South Korea. I spent several months in Seoul back in 2004, and I completely fell in love with the country. I’ve witnessed how much the culture has evolved — from K-pop and fashion to beauty and design — and it’s truly remarkable.
Australia is also on my radar — it’s such a vast and vibrant scene, with a growing awareness around scent and sustainability. I love discovering new cultures. Each of these regions presents a different challenge, and a new way to tell stories through perfume, which is what excites me most.
If you had to translate your style across mediums, which artists/bodies of art resonate most deeply?
Music: Patti Smith, always — her raw poetry and electric energy really echo the way I create: emotional, instinctive, fearless. But more broadly, I’m drawn to moments when creative movements are born — 90s hip-hop, 2000-2010 electro and French touch. The Blaze, Justice, Phoenix, Jamie XX… I love that energy of cultural shift and experimentation.
Fashion: Bottega Veneta — especially under Matthieu Blazy — I admire the simplicity but powerfulness of his work. I’m also very curious to see what he’ll bring to Chanel. Alaïa and also under Pieter Mulier, Schiaparelli with Daniel Roseberry — what a brilliant rebirth.McQueen work and also Sarah Burton’s is also another strong reference for me, eager to see more at Givenchy. Vacarello at Saint Laurent…
Visual Art: Olafur Eliasson. His immersive, sensory work is incredible. Tree of Codes especially moved me. The set, the lighting…
Film: Lost in Translation and American Beauty — both for their visual beauty and emotional depth. Call Me By Your Name. That balance between aesthetic and a strong impact without telling much directly.
Literature: Patti Smith’s Just Kids is a constant source of inspiration — her life, relationship with Mapplethorpe, New York and its artists at that time, the Chelsea Hotel... I also loved Don’t Ever Wipe Tears Without Gloves by Jonas Gardell — delicate and heartbreaking — and Confiteor by Jaume Cabré, which is a masterpiece.
A holy grail item in your life?
A pen — I never leave the house without one. Always taking notes. And of course… my phone.
You have the day off; what’s your perfect day?
It really depends where I am. If I’m by the sea, my dream day off would include scuba diving three times, or hiking in the mountains — nothing brings me more clarity or peace. But if I’m in Paris, probably playing a match or watching a game with friends, or coaching my kids’ team. But honestly? My ideal would also be doing nothing at all. A day at home, resting, eating well, and just chilling — a spontaneous dinner in a tiny Parisian bistro with my friends.
Thank you Cécile <3
FOLLOW CÉCILE:
Website – www.cecilezarokian.com
Instagram – @cecilezarokianparfumeur
TikTok – @cecilezarokianparfumeur
If I were making a LuckyScent cart of samples of Cécile Zarokian creations, I’d add:
Amouage: Epic Woman, Material, Outlands; Jovoy Remember Me, Nishane Ani, Masque Milano: Tango, Petra; Electimuss Vanilla Edesia, Aura AEOM
(Save 10% on Luckyscent orders $40+ with Perfume Room code ‘perfumeroom10’)
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