THE OTHER ROOM: EP. 151 - PERFUMER MATTEO SANCHEZ!
THE OTHER ROOM: EP. 151 - PERFUMER MATTEO SANCHEZ!
Matteo shares his biggest hurdles, favorite perfumers, personal perfume collection, and holy grail products.
MATTEO PARFUMS Perfumer and Founder Matteo Sanchez joined me in the Perfume Room earlier this week. Today, he returns with even more fun, personal stories in The Other Room.
The Other Room is the official Perfume Room companion post-show. Every Tuesday, hear from guests on their episode of Perfume Room podcast, and on Fridays, enjoy bonus content from those same guests exclusively on Substack!
With a degree in Applied Mathematics and all plans to move full-steam ahead into the world of finance, Matteo Sanchez’s course changed by chance, all thanks to one routine dentist cleaning.
It was in the waiting room at this appointment that he read an article in in a magazine about a profession entirely new to him: perfumery. Immediately, Matteo was hooked. He sought out every reading and raw material he could get his eyes and nose on. He took courses through the Institute for Art & Olfaction; he took on an apprenticeship under a lauded perfumer of the Bay Area. Cut to 2024: he’s launched an eponymous brand, MATTEO PARFUMS. He’s released two fragrances with a third on the way, his work has been nominated for IAO Awards, and he’s the recipient of a major L’Oreal beauty grant.
Watch the space, as they say. I am certain we will be hearing more of and more from Matteo Sanchez. Until then, enjoy this exclusive, post-show Other Room catch-up.
(Some links may be eligible for affiliate commission. Find my affiliate discount codes at the end of the interview.)
What's been the biggest learning curve in becoming a perfumer?
Building accords—both photorealistic and artistic. It's something I continue to refine and will continue to practice, like many junior perfumers, in order to become a "master." This is a crucial skill. Every mind-blowing fragrance is built on accords that feel so real, so dynamic and lively, you can't believe it's been bottled. Then, not only do the individual accords have to smell great, they have to play nice with the other accords and materials you add to your formula. It's an expert-level game.
A perfumer who can do no wrong?
I'll break the rules and name 5 who are some of my favorites. Alberto Morillas [click link to listen to Alberto on Perfume Room], a living legend at dsm-firmenich, known for classics like CK One. Bruno Jovanovic, who is a starbright talent currently at dsm-firmenich as well (previously IFF). Then, an indie fave of mine, Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays, who I had the pleasure of finally meeting in Lisbon, Portugal over the summer. Last but not least, my Michaels: Michael Wong of One Day and Michael Nordstrand of Mythologist. Both are good friends and fellow noses that constantly impress me. I value their compositions and abilities to create liquid art.
You mentioned in our interview that your 13th perfume in your personal collection was on its way. What is it?
Something I’ve been meaning to make mine for a while! Amyris Homme by the one and only Francis Kurkdjian.
Can you share more about the work you're doing related to AI in perfumery?
MATTEO PARFUMS is creating the scented future with Tailor™. Upholding our key values of artistry, alchemy, and authenticity, we're working at the nexus of chemistry, AI, neuroscience, and imaginative inclusivity, to develop hyper-personalized creation and bring uncharted worlds of scent to the forefront. Our unique platform ushers in a fresh new way to build and buy fragrances, among other self-care products, that are personal, one-of-a-kind, and specifically tailored to you.
As our AI experience, Tailor™ by MATTEO PARFUMS will (1) bring transparency into what you're wearing, (2) prioritize high-quality, cleaner, safer ingredients, and (3) rapidly curate creative compositions that fit you and open the door to boundless potential. Our third scent (which is not yet released!) is created in collaboration with our proprietary tool, Tailor™.
[Ed. Note - I have many more questions. Perhaps we’ll need a follow-up once Tailor™ is live!]
A holy grail item that the people need to know!
Fell Fell in love with a Japanese sunscreen brand while gallivanting in Southern France, chilling at this gorgeous Moroccan-inspired bed & breakfast this past summer. It's Sensai Silky Bronze SPF 30/50.
Goes on like butter, no white-cast, makes your skin look healthy, poreless, and sun-kissed. The best part? No breakouts, and makes my skin feel soft! I have sensitive skin, so this is always a win and a must for topical items. I immediately bought a full-sized bottle when I came back to the U.S.
Also, mango sticky rice. Just mango sticky rice. Please, if you have not eaten some before, do so while mangoes are still in season.
Best perfume advice you ever received?
Figure out your heart (notes) first and keep an open heart. Sound advice even outside of perfumery. After all, it is the "soul" and essence of your fragrance. Sure, the base will last the longest technically, and the top notes are what first grabs the attention. However, it's the heart that reels and retains the wearer and the climax of the spray. It's then the base that lingers, sticking around, like a fragrant reminder, an aromatic stain, of the beauty you once experienced.
Therefore, figure out your heart first. Be amazed how building everything else around it comes together.
Who's on repeat on your Spotify right now?
Similar to Bruno Fazzolari from EP 147, my taste is wide and my choice of music changes with the day, the activity, the mood. At the moment, I can't get enough of Tems, ¿Téo? (I like that we coincidentally have the same name), Durand Jones & The Indications, Peso Pluma, classic Black Eyed Peas, Larry June and Don Toliver, and like Bruno, SZA and Khruangbin have snuck their way into my repeats lately.
What's your sign? hehe.
You couldn't tell? I'm clearly a Capricorn. I am a Leo-dominant Cap apparently though (Capricorn Sun, Leo Moon & Rising).
[Ed. Note - the power!]
Is the Sanchez family repping Matteo perfumes? Are your brothers into fragrance too?
Of course! My dad will regularly ask me for Celadawn or Lovers' Dew to spritz and if he can have more (once again) samples. My mom is currently loving my third scent, which is unreleased, and begs me, what feels like weekly, as to when it will launch. This makes me super happy! She has excellent taste in perfume. I've also had aunts, uncles, and cousins from both sides of my family buy from the MATTEO PARFUMS collection, which means the world. My brothers all love, buy, and explore scents too—but to no one's surprise, I take the cake. I have been the one to put them on to more indie and niche fine fragrance houses and scents.
What’s next!
I'm excited to be visiting Sweden and Switzerland for the first time in November-December this year for fragrance events and business meetings. MATTEO PARFUMS is happily a guest of honor to the Polaris Perfume Expo in Stockholm. We're looking forward to networking and connecting with the Scandinavian and European market and audiences more intently and profoundly this holiday season.
FOLLOW MATTEO ON IG: matthewjsanchez | matteoparfums
SHOP: matteoparfums.com
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This was such a sweet episode. Loved hearing more about his journey.